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Wednesday 25 October 2006--I catch the little ferry for Claonig out of Lochranza at 9:30 and watch Arran recede under a hazy
sky. It's a short drive at the other end to Skipness Castle, which I saw in 1999. The oldest parts of it date to the 13th
century, with later additions including the 16th century tower house.
Kilbrannan Chapel is a couple hundred yards away, close to the shore. The view of Arran from here is striking. The chapel dates from the 14th century. There are gravestones dating right on up into the 20th century. The prize here, though, is several very well-preserved medieval grave slabs, protected from the weather by modern covers resembling coffin lids. Seems a bit redundant! I drive across the northern end of Kintyre to Kennacraig, where I catch the Caledonian MacBrayne ferry for Islay. The first time I made this trip, in 1999, we landed in Port Ellen; every time since, it's been Port Askaig, and that is our destination today. I guess I've made this trip enough times to be bored with it, as I prefer to nod off in the lounge rather than stand on the upper deck in the brisk and sunless weather. I'm in the Academy House at Bruichladdich again, and I make the half-hour drive from Port Askaig in advancing twilight. I have the place to myself this year, it seems. It's quiet at the Port Charlotte Hotel this evening, and I strike up a conversation with an Aussie named Andrew whom I remember from the ferry. It develops that he has two nights in Islay, one full day, and no car--he's planning to see as much of the island as he can in one day by bus. "That won't do," I say, and I offer to show him as much as possible by car. He gladly accepts. Getting the essence of Islay in a day will be a challenge, one I am very pleased to try to meet. Next |
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Skipness Castle
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Courtyard
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Arran from Skipness
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Kilbrannan Chapel
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Grave slab
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Boarding the ferry to Islay
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