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Friday 27 October 2006--I drive Andrew to Port Ellen to catch his ferry this morning--he'd have had an early and tedious bus ride otherwise. Finding myself in PE at 9:00am on a dreary day, I do the sensible thing and take the 9:30 tour at Lagavulin.

After, I walk the little beach known as Singing Sands on the other side of Port Ellen, and spend a couple hours in the CyberCafe. I run a few errands in Bowmore before driving out to Bunnahabhain, hoping to catch the 4:15 tour. There is no tour, but the distillery manager, John MacLellan, is holding court in his office. He offers me a dram, as well as a few of his refreshingly candid opinions. A pair of Aussies arrive, fresh off the ferry at Port Askaig, and join the three Germans already there, and me. They are staying at the hostel in Port Charlotte, and I tell them about tonight's session in the hotel.

I nap a bit before dinner, and am lucky to get a good seat in the pub (at a table with the Aussies) this evening. There is a good deal of anticipation for tonight's entertainment, which is provided by Fraser Shaw (whom we met last year) on the pipes, and Emily Edwards on the fiddle. They don't disappoint. It's more a two-person session than a polished show. They are joined occasionally by one of the owners of Islay Ales, on the bodhran. He very wisely plays with great restraint, letting the two young musicians shine. It's a fun and lively evening.

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Lagavulin stills

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