8 October 2007

September

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Monday 8 October 2007--I'm off for Knoydart today, a place I've wanted to visit for several years--in fact, it was booked in 2005, but lost when I had to go home. I'm a little nervous about it, as it's different from any place I've been before. There is no road access. One may ferry from Mallaig, or make the long trek in overland. I'm taking the ferry, of course, and I suppose it's not unlike going to any island, except I can't bring the car.

I've allowed three hours from Inveraray to Mallaig. There are major roadworks along the Road to the Isles; the last few twisting single-track sections are being widened and straightened. The road might be losing some of its character, but I doubt there are any objections to the improvement of access.

I arrive in Mallaig in time to book my onward passage to Skye on Wednesday, park my car in a long-term area, and do a little shopping. At 2:00 I board the MV Western Isles, bound for Inverie with a dozen other passengers and boxloads of groceries and other goods. We depart under a blanket of cloud, but the sky shortly begins to break, and we land forty-five minutes later in full sun.

Inverie is a pretty little whitewashed village. I take note of the pub and the Pier House restaurant as I pass through, as well as the shop and post office, which keeps decidedly short hours. The Knoydart Foundation bunkhouse is about a fifteen-minute walk up the road. There is no one in when I arrive, so I choose a bunk and go out for a further walk along the track toward Loch Hourn. An hour later, I find Morag at the bunkhouse. She confirms that I am the only one in tonight.

It's fairly quiet in the Old Forge this evening. This place must be something in the summer, when it's full of walkers. There are leftover posters around advertising appearances of various bands in the village, and even some for upcoming offseason events. It's hard to think of a place this small being that lively.

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