9 October 2007

September

/Octoberrrrrrrrrrrr

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Tuesday 9 October 2007--When you've set aside a single day for walking, you are at the mercy of the weather, and it doesn't look very good as I stroll into the village this morning. But I note, as I eat breakfast in the Pier House, that the sun is shining on Rùm to the west, and I figure it will be along in a little while. Sure enough, I am shortly peeling layers as I walk up the forestry track behind the village.

I have in mind to climb Sgùrr Coire Choinnichean, the 2600-foot peak behind the village. There does not seem to be any kind of maintained trail, however, and the ground is fairly boggy. I lower my sights to Beinn Bhreac and Creag Mhòr Scòiteis, two knobs of around 1200 feet on the other side of the track. That turns out to be suitably ambitious, and the summit of Beinn Bhreac serves well enough as a picnic site for lunch. The higher peaks are wreathed in some stubborn low cloud, which spoils the view a bit, but validates the decision not to go higher.

As I negotiate the saddle between the two knobs, cloud cover comes and goes, causing me to don and then doff my jacket. I am just about to ascend Creag Mhòr when I realize I have lost my bumbag somewhere, probably when untying the jacket from around my waist. There is a moment of panic, and I briefly consider abandoning it. What's in it? Junk, mostly, but also my infrared filter. Fortunately, I have my hand-held GPS, and I am able to retrace my steps within inches. After fifteen minutes of backtracking, I virtually stumble over the bumbag before seeing it--I'd never have found it without the GPS. As I bend to retrieve it, I remember that my passport is in it! I have learned a lesson, and gotten off easy.

I'm back at the bunkhouse by late afternoon, and shower and walk into the village, which is glowing in the low sunlight. A dozen lads are enjoying their pints outside. The sunset is spectacular, and anyone with a camera takes a shot. Inside, it's quite a bit livelier this evening, and some of the denizens take an interest in the photographs I'm working on in the laptop.

The sky is clear and moonless as I walk back to the bunkhouse, and I think that I have never seen so many stars. I've thought that more than once in Scotland--a few years ago in Ardnamurchan springs to mind. I stop in a clearing and set the camera on the ground, lens pointed straight up, shutter set for thirty seconds. Who knows how that will come out.

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