I have for years had a fantasy of a trip encircling the Great Lakes, in my mind the western anchor of the North Atlantic Arc. Many times I've tried to map a route following the entire shorelines of all five, a trip I knew was not realistic. When it came time to plot something more doable, I decided my hook would be to make stops on islands in each of the lakes. It was still too long, and when I realized that booking for the Rock Harbor Lodge on Isle Royale in Lake Superior filled up a year ahead, I cut it down further. The Superior shore of Minnesota and much of Michigan's Upper Peninsula were lost, relegated to the "another time" bin that looks less and less likely as the years pass. It's still a four-week trip, a long and ambitious one for me at this stage, and rising hotel rates make it a lot more expensive than I'd like. But here we go, because I must while I can. The War of 1812 will cast a long shadow; I'll see whatever other history, geography, and culture capture my attention along the way.

Sunday 27 April 2025--