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In the morning we drive up the west coast and across the north
coast of Scotland. It is spectacular country, and well off the beaten path.
Win, normally a fidgety passenger, is happy to let me negotiate the
single-track roads and passing places. It’s not difficult, as long as you
remember always to keep left. We take a couple hours’ hike to the Point of
Stoer, explore the spacious Smoo Cave, and pass an hour on one of the many
achingly beautiful beaches along the way, collecting shells for the aquarium at
home. In a shop in Durness, we are amused by the peculiar flavors of
crisps—potato chips—available, and grab a packet of Roasted Chicken & Thyme.
We arrive in Thurso later than we’d meant to, and do not check in at the ferry
terminal in nearby Scrabster, as originally planned. Our B&B is
disappointing, but the Station Hotel has a pretty good restaurant, and Top Joe’s
Bar has added cask ale since my last visit, so the evening is not a total loss.
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