Sunday 7 October 2007--Misty gray morning. The owner of the Steampacket walks in during breakfast, greets all,
announces the weather and a season-end sale at the garden shop up the road, and asks if anyone needs any other information.
"Do you have a boat?" asks a lady.
"Yes, that's it there, the Peregrine II," he says, gesturing out the window, "the one with the starlings in the
rigging, happily dee fee cating on my deck." He is a cheerful old coot who makes me want to return.
I drive up the west side of the Machars to Glenluce, then over the single-track road to Barrhill, through a decidedly
Highland-looking part of the Lowlands. As I descend into Girvan, the sky clears, and Arran smiles at me from across the
firth. Through Ayr and Largs I go, on up the coast to Gourock, where I catch the ferry for Dunoon. I chose this route on
a whim while looking at the map this morning, and I'm very pleased with myself--it saves dealing with heavy traffic in
suburban Glasgow, over Erskine Bridge, and along Loch Lomond. I'm in Inveraray well early enough to squander funds in Loch
Fyne Whiskies. My guesthouse is a short walk from town and the George Hotel, where I eat, drink, and watch rugby.
Scotland are eliminated by Argentina, 19-13.
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