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Friday 1 October--Today is planned as a museum day, which is rather a shame, as it is a beautiful day. We do manage to take the funicular up the mountain behind our guest house. At the top we get a marvelous view of the city. On our way to the museum district, we linger a while in the colorful marketplace on the waterfront.

Most of the museums keep rather short hours this time of year, so we run through the history and maritime museums. Fortunately they are small. The art museum complex is quite large, however, and is also open later, so we spend some time there looking at Norwegian landscapes, dreary Munchs, Russian icons, and a ten-foot-square canvas painted solid banana yellow. Late in the afternoon, we pick up our rental car and drive to the suburb of Fantoft. Here, one of Norway's fantastic medieval stave churches has been reassembled, stick by stick, after having been moved from another part of the country. Unfortunately, a deranged person burnt it to the ground in 1994. Fortunately, they'd done architectural drawings of every single stick, so they were able to reconstruct it. We are hoping to see one of the remaining genuine stave churches at Borgund in a couple days. Next to the church is a cross, nearly a thousand years old, that dates to the early days of christianity in Norway.


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