Monday 1 October 2007--Got back to Llandudno by sundown, stopping first at Tesco and then Asda, where I found what I was looking for--a single-use peppermill. I'm sick of the powdery pepper all the pubs seem to have here--it comes out in clouds.

Wednesday 1 October 2014--I have modest goals for my two days in Amsterdam: to drink beer and sleep late. So far, so good. I'm out at the crack of noon for coffee and a bagel, and then my usual meandering along the canals. Pass through a neighborhood full of antique shops and land in Waterlooplein, where there is a flea market. Scour the stalls for a hat, to no avail. There are hats, of course, but not what I want. A while later, in a used clothing store, I find a bin full of bandanas, and pick one for €2. It will do for walking on the beaches in Northumberland, if I don't find anything better. I will look like a super tough guy Harley dude. Not.

I have dinner al fresco at a place called Winkel, then settle in for a couple of beers on 't Smalle's terrasse, hanging out over the canal. It's a pleasant evening, and I can't think of a better combination than a La Chouffe, an Amsterdam canal, and a pretty blonde waitress. Finish the evening again at Gollem's.